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Hammam

In his last article, we Bérangère extolling the delights of a steam bath it did during his weekend in Paris that the coup has revived memories rather incredible a hammam in Marrakesh.

We're in August 2001, we rented a villa in the suburb of Gueliz, with two couples. The place is gorgeous, a huge wrought iron gate opens on a large plot planted with palms and trees with varied across the pool and dining area. Eastern left the building houses on the right rooms for tenants. The rest of the house is the private owner of apartment places that we will not see because he lives part of the year in France. Across the land, a building smaller houses two bedrooms and a bathroom. Our two pairs of friends are headed to the rooms of the central building, we take the neighborhood in the small house which is nice but will be as hot as it has no air conditioner.

Fatima is activated in the kitchen with his aides. She has three young women in her service and she leads a master hand. They are responsible for running errands, to prepare our meals and carry out the cleaning of our rooms. It's a bit like a hotel except that there is more cool and there is no real schedule to follow.

The stay goes well and we try as much as possible not to live as tourists but to mix with the population. Fatima gives us the addresses of restaurants and typical places to visit. After one week, we tempted by the steam, we've seen advertising and hotels offer a lot of opportunities as attractive as each other.

We are already seeing in the sumptuous steam rooms, sipping mint tea, massaged by creatures of dream, pampered by gentle hands .... A bit like in the movies of the thousand and one nights. ... We want the best of the best, some hotels offer packages that very interesting, hammam, massage, snack, swimming pool ... .. we see them already and we no longer talk of nothing else ....

Fatima who has not missed a beat in the conversation just like every night sitting with us and have dessert. The hammam she goes once a week and it usually goes through a small steam room not far from the villa. We want the typical, we want the truth, then why go locked in a hotel with tourists, so we can do locally. ... And above all why go pay for something super expensive so we can have both cheaper!!

Yes finally, Fatima is right and knows how persuasive. We will know a true and not a Moroccan hammam steam room hotel, and with the savings we will make it able to indulge in the souk. You end up rallying to his cause and decide to go the next day afternoon, the men keep the children.

I do not know why but I suddenly felt crappy from the start and my fears were not allayed when we arrived in the neighborhood or the steam room was located. We went to an old stone building which would have needed a good cleaning. I will always remember the curtain of the entrance door with colored plastic strips dangling in every direction and the hag who kept the cash.

I had a while back and I watched the girls who do pipaient word. It was shared between the fear, the desire to scamper like warrens and also a mad desire to laugh was certainly due to the existing tension.

must say that the place was really murky, one would have believed in the courtyard of miracles. A long corridor divided the building into two, one side for men and other women.
The madam had to wash the hair in an oil bath and her blouse was not the first cool, she had her hair in an old bar that held by the operation of the Holy Spirit. His arms were like those of a precious newborn and his chubby buttocks were outside of the chair.

She gave us a key to our locker and a towel which was more than the first fresh and had not be washed with detergent that washes whiter. We walked to the locker room that was actually a common dressing room. Fatima left us there and showed us she was going to do some shopping. We therefore found himself between us and the tongues were loosened as dry. It was not really what we had imagined, we thought we might have not come but we did not want to offend Fatima. Anyway the place was not good and we were not really alone because we had seen two or three wags the sinister-looking admires us emphasis during our stay in the corridor leading to the locker room.

I scarcely dared to sit on the wooden bench and I was wrapped in the towel, taking care previously to examine it in all directions. It was rough and irritated skin that already sensitized by the sun. I put my clothes and my bag in the locker and I hurried to tie the key around my wrist. The atmosphere is relaxed gradually and we might even laugh at the situation. We had orders to wait until we come to pick us up, we had the luxury of having each person in our service is Fatima, who had demanded and had even brought a person who was on vacation ....

I do not know why but I clung to my towel like an oyster with a rock .... I was extremely stressed and had a hard time to relax, lack of hygiene of the place annoyed me a lot and if there had been no girlfriends, I took my legs to my neck !

They arrived as one man, they broke into the locker room and needed to see it to believe it. Three wives, each with a loofah. One she seemed to be the leader, wore extra large bucket of soap! They made us get into a first chamber where it was warm but not suffocating and made us sit on the floor, they filed gloves and bucket and came out.

We started to relax, steam and moist heat to help and we had even taken the luxury of laughing at the situation. We were between us and there was nobody else, as if the steam had been reserved for us. We had an idea of the sequence of events, each of us would be a good soap women they made us more afraid than anything else and were very far from beautiful creatures seen on the leaflets of steam hotels.

Obviously and as usual, I inherited the ugliest. I hardly dared look at her, she was approaching sixty. She was wearing a simple tunic and I could see her heavy breasts hanging down. It scared me that breast and it was stronger than me but I could not stop looking at her. She had tied her hair began to gray and it lacked two teeth in the mouth which gave him the air of a witch and I immediately compared the witch of Snow White. When she came towards me with his loofah, I felt she handed me the famous apple that would make me sleep forever.

She spoke very little French and swallowed his words, so I contented myself sometimes to make a nod when I do not understand. ... The girls were not better off but they seemed much more relaxed than me. The witch grabbed me suddenly and snatched the towel that covered me, she threw it carelessly on the side and began to lather myself with excitement so I was breathless. I heard the girls giggling because for her it had not yet started and they had every opportunity to observe me. It coated my black soap and there escaped not a corner. I could hardly sit up and I even remember what we had slipped a good laugh. The other got caught by the leg and got back in the saddle! Meanwhile the girls were also taken in hand and little by little relaxation was in order and the party turned to outright laughter.

The three good women did not understand why they clucked like chickens, they exchanged in Arabic so that we do not understand but I think we did not care. My witch was trying to explain the benefits of black soap and when she grabbed the loofah necessarily less well it works! she rubbed so vigorously that I thought she was going to rip my skin and suddenly I was a little reluctant.

She wanted to prove to me by A + B the benefits of his approach I was not convinced so far. I had always heard that massage glove used in small circular movements, soft touch and she arrived with her big shoes and I planted squarely in the glove skin. She then praised his seniority in the trade and customer satisfaction, I still was not convinced so far and I waited impatiently for the torture ends. When she arrived with the glove on my chest I stopped immediately, there was no question she entered the space is a sensitive area and I did not want to find myself without skin! ! Of course she did not understand and said I was a fuss, she did this every day but I did not budge and made him clearly understand that it was my problem and not hers. She continued her task while grumbling and ended it with a bucket of water she poured me warm over the head. We wanted to be typical of him. One of the girlfriends had nabbed a giggle when I saw this and could not stop.

Then we moved in two different rooms but this time the witch and the end of the meeting turned to general laughter. We could not stop. We said we would keep an unforgettable memory of this passage and the hammam is the case. When Fatima came to pick us up we told him that everything went well and we did not linger on the subject. We had imagined a moment of pleasure, serenity, relaxation in a nice shiny clean steam room, a rest on a couch sipping tea, soft skilled hands and a nice massage .... Oil smells spicy oriental ... ...

Farewell calf, cow, pig, brood, there was no castle in Spain, but instead a good laugh .....

Finally next week, when Fatima proposed to return, I do not know why suddenly it was all done in a very tired ..... and it went it alone in Hammam's favorite!